The nearest town is Poggibonsi which is 2km away. This town has several shops and restaurants and most other amenities. Before entering into Poggibonsi there is a large PAM supermarket that is occasionally open on Sunday mornings.
Shopping in Poggibonsi
Supermarket - There are various small supermarkets in Poggibonsi. There is also a Coop hypermarket which offers a huge range at low prices.
usual hours 09.00 to 21.00
Closed Sunday
In the summer on Sunday mornings the Pam supermarket at Poggibonsi Nord is open.
Market - There is a market here on Tuesday mornings.
Chemist - There are many chemists. There will also be one open at night and on Sundays. To know which one is open phone the number listed outside all chemists. On this notice there is also which Sunday the chemist is open. In the centre of Poggibonsi near the level crossing there is a chemist which is open from 8.30 - 12.30 and 16 - 20.
Banks - There are several banks in Poggibonsi where there are cash dispensers that accept Credit Cards.
Hospital - There is a large hospital with an emergency room on the outskirts of the town.
Doctor - For a doctor or ambulance call 118
Tourist office - The main tourist office in Poggibonsi is in the station square and it is there that you can but rail/bus tickets amongst other things. The other one at 23, Via Borgaccio is run by a charming Italian who speaks excellent French. He is closed on Sundays and other office hours are 14.00 - 20.00. Buses for Florence and Siena both go from in front of the station, although parking is a problem.
Poggibonsi is a large town that is full of business activity. The old town centre is the nicest part with several shops that you can browse. Here there are a few of the little Italian family run shops which are full of character and can create an interesting experience.
Poggibonsi restaurants
Siena
Siena
Siena is a beautiful walled city, famous for the Palio, a horse race in the main square.
Below are some of the things that must not be missed when visiting Siena.
THE DUOMO
The beautiful black and white Cathedral built from the second half of the thirteenth century to the beginning of the fourteenth century. Inside there is the famous Piccolomini Library, where Pinturicchio painted in 1505 - 07 stories about the life of the Pope Pio II. It was to be the largest cathedral in Italy but due to the Plague it remains unfinished.
THE PALAZZO PUBBLICO
This was the seat of the Republic government of Siena. Inside are great masterpieces such as the “Majesty” painted by Simone Martini in 1315 and the cycle “Good and Bad Government” by Ambrogio Lorenzetti (1338 – 40).
Its entrance is the large door on the right side of the Torre del Mangia in Piazza del Campo.
THE BASILICA OF ST. DOMENICO
Its construction was begun by the Domenican fathers around 1225 and was finished forty years later: inside the church there is the Chapel of Vaults, where almost all the miracles of St. Caterina were performed. On the right side of the nave there is the Chapel of St. Caterina, where is located the altar containing St. Caterina’s head (her body is preserved in Rome in the Basilica St. Maria sopra Minerva). In this chapel there are beautiful frescoes by Sodoma.
You can find this Basilica in Piazza San Domenico.
THE MUSEUM OF OPERA METROPOLITANA
This is the most important and peculiar museum in the city, besides being one of the most prestigious museums in Europe. It includes amongst many other masterpieces some sculptures from the outside of the Cathedral, sculpted by Giovanni Pisano at the end of XIII century, and the Maesta’ by Duccio Buoninsegna (1311), the most loved work by the Sienese.
The entrance to this museum is in the right-end of Piazza del Duomo.
SANTA MARIA DELLA SCALA HOSPITAL
Probably the most ancient hospital in the world: the first document that mentions its activity is an act dated 1090. In origin it sheltered pilgrims during their travels to and from Rome. The fantastic frescoes in the Pellegrinaio room give an interesting and detailed description of its development and its sanitary functions.
Inside the Hospital is the beautiful Santissima Annanziata Church.
The entrance is in front of the Duomo steps; it’s possible to visit the church only, without a ticket.
SANTUARIO DI SANTA CATERINA
In this area Santa Caterina lived with her family; when Pio II canonised her in 1461, the Sienese decided to build a sanctuary in the Saint’s birthplace. Now there are three churches: the Bedroom’s Oratory, the Kitchen ‘s Oratory and the Church of the Crucifix, where is preserved the ancient Crucifix which gave the stigmatas to the Saint in Pisa.
The entrance is at the bottom of the little steps in Costa di Sant’Antonio, a short and steep downhill road from via della Sapienza.
THE BASILICA OF ST. FRANCIS
It was founded around 1228 by the Franciscan fathers. It was enlarged in 1300 and seriously damaged in 1655 by a tremendous fire. However it contains important ancient frescoes by Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzetti and a great polyptic by Lippo Vanni.
This Basilica is situated in Piazza San Francesco at the top of Via del Comune or at the end of Via dei Rossi.
THE BASILICA OF ST. MARIA DEI SERVI
It was founded by a group of monks from Montesenario called Maria’s Servants around 1230, but the construction was very long and the front of the basilica is unfinished. The inside is completely different from the outside: there are three luminous and spacious Renaissance styled naves, with many interesting paintings and ancient frescoes, such as a Madonna with Child by the Florentine Coppo di Marcovaldo (1261 ),taken prisoner by the Sienese during the battle of Montaperti, and The slaughter of the innocents by Matteo di Giovanni ( 1491 ).
You can find the basilica in the south part of the city in Via dei Servi, close to Porta Romana.
THE ORATORY OF ST. BERNARDINO COMPANY
Here there are two small oratories: on the ground floor, you can admire some lunettes frescoed at the end of the sixteenth century with stories about St. Bernardino’s life. On the upper floor, there is the oratory called Santa Maria degli Angeli, a wonder of Sienese Renaissance: an exceptional cycle with “ Stories of the Virgin“ was frescoed here by two of the most famous Sienese painters in 1500, Domenico Beccafumi and Sodoma.
This oratory is situated in Piazza San Francesco and it is open from March to October (10.30 – 13.30 and 15.30 – 17.30).
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THE PALIO
First of all Palio is not a horse race in the modern sense, but a medieval joust in which ten Contradas fight only with one intent: the final victory that means power and honor. So Palio is a Sienese festival for Sienese people where tourists are welcome, but it’s a little difficult for them to understand its deeper significance. Siena is divided into 17 contrada's, which are almost like little republics. At the palio only 10 can run, seven of these are those that did not run in the proceding race and the other three are selected from the remaining 10 by a draw that takes place at least 20 days before the palio. The following are the main appointments of the palio.
Three days before the race:
The owners of the horses bring their horses for a medical check-up. The the horses are put into groups and are run three times around the Piazza il Campo, this is to test their ability on the track. At the end of the trials the contrada captains, in the presence of the Mayor, choose the 10 horses that will run the race. After which, in front of the Palazzo Pubblico there is a draw and each contrada is assigned a horse. Each contrada then takes its horse to the stable of the contrada.
The trial runs:
There are six trial runs, which occur every morning (at about 9am) and each afternoon (at around 7:30pm), these are inportant to check the conditions of the horse and the jokey. To each trial the horse is accompanied by a group of members from the contrada who,often, sing traditional songs.
The fifth trial is called the "prova generale" (the general trial), at the end of this there is a huge dinner on the streets of each contrada's area of the city.
The day of the race:
At about 8am in the Chapel next to the Palazzo Comunale there is a mass for the jokeys. Immediately after the last trail is run. At about 3pm in each chapel of the 10 contrada's there is the blessing of the horse, after which there is a parade of all the horses and contrada throught the city streets, this parade enters Piazza il Campo at about 5pm
The race:
At the end of the parade, a gun is fired to the exit of the horses. Each jokey if given a whip the he can use on his horse or use to block the other jokeys during the race.
The horses make their way towards the start where they get called to line up by a draw. Nine of the horses line up and the tenth starts the race from behind them. He is the starter, he has a running start.
The jokeys will then bribe each other and try to get the enemy contrada in the worst position possible for the start of the race. If the horses are not still and in line the race cannot be started. They may be called out of line and recalled until the horses and jokeys calm down, this is decided by the 'mossiere', who calls the line up.
The horses have to do 3 runs of the square, the first is the winner. A horse can win even if his rider falls off and he arrives at the end alone.
The celebration:
The celebrations start immediately after the race. The Palio (prize) is given to the winning contrada. There is much sings, flag waving and feasting, which can carry on for many days after the race. The evening of the race there is a huge party in the zone of the contrada where you can enter it's church and museum for free, and you can also drink as much wine as there is available.
HOW TO WATCH IT
With a spot of good luck you may be able to watch the Palio trials from the Council benches located in front of the Palazzo Pubblico or from the other benches located all around the square. The seats are sold at the price of € 5 for the morning trials and €10 for those in the afternoon. For tickets you should apply to the palcaiolo at least an hour before the start of the trial.
Unfortunately the situation is totally different on the day of the Palio: the Council seats are reserved for the costumed characters and it’s quite impossible to find a free seat in the other benches, because all the seats have been sold in the past months. So the alternative is to attempt to watch the Palio from the square: this is a somewhat stressful experience, but absolutely free.
Shopping in Siena
Supermarket: There is a large Coop supermarket near the station. It is normally open from 08.00 to 20.00 however for up to date opening times
click here to visit their website.
This supermarket is also open in the morning every first Sunday of the month.
Banks: Siena has many banks, most are open in the mornings until 13.30 and then again for an hour in the afternoons. The afternoon opening times vary from bank to bank.
Petrol: There are several pertrol stations in Siena, all have self-service machines that run when they are closed so make sure you have 5, 10 or 20 Euro notes.
Hospital: There is a large hospital with emergency services in Siena
Siena restaurants
Il Ghibellino
At the Baptistery end of via dei Pellegrini
An attractive traditional atmosphere, excellent reasonably priced country food, Italian clientele - the preferred place for a midday stop between Duomo and Campo!
Closed Monday
Tel: +39 0577 288079
Antica Trattoria Papei
Piazza del Mercato, 6
A Michelin recommendation.
Closed Monday
Tel: +39 0577 280894
Al Mangia
Piazza del Campo
The best (and most expensive) on the Campo
Tel: +39 0577 281121
Osteria del Gatto
Via San Marco 8
near porta San Marco - Siena
This is a small restaurant that serves typical Sienese dishes. Your host and cook Marco will happily recommend the best items on the menu and serve them to you with an excellent wine from his cellar. On Fridays there is a menu of fish cooked in a Tuscan way.
Not only is the food excellent but the price is reasonable.
Tel: +39 0577 287133
Volterra
Volterra is one of the finest and lesser known hilltop towns tucked away in the heart of Tuscany only a short distance from Florence 72 kms, Siena 50 kms,Pisa 64 kms,S.Gimignano 29 kms.
Idyllically set amidst an evocative landscape of soft rolling hills and lush woodland abruptly defined by barren ,deep clay walled chasms, gullies and ravines, Volterra, 545 metres above sea level, dominates and divides the Cecina and Era valleys
For more info on Volterra
click here
HISTORY
Volterra is a town of Etruscan origins. From the 8th century B.C. the Etruscans began to spread out over the slopes and this Etruscan town, called Velathri, registered as a remarkable economic development based on the mineral deposits of copper and silver in an area rich in forests, agriculture and husbandry. Velathri became one of the twelve city-states of Etruria with a territory that extended from the river Pesa to the Tyrrhenian sea and from the river Arno to the basin of the Cornia river.
During the Roman period the name of Volterra changed from Velathri to Volaterrae and the relations with Rome were good. Volterra continued to prosper in the last years of the 1st century B.C and this can be seen in the urban development during this period which included the construction of the theatre and of a residential area in the neighbourhood of Vallebona.
During the early Middle Ages Volterra became the diocese of a vast area and a small temple dedicated to Mary, the first duomo of the city, was erected. Giusto was the first bishop and patron of Volterra and a legend tells of how he miraculously saved the city in the 6th century by encouraging the populace, exhausted by famine, to throw bread over the defensive walls; convinced that the city was capable of resisting a long siege the Barbarians withdrew and the city was saved.
During the 9th and 10th centuries the growing prosperity not only enhanced the religious life but also the social, economic and jurisdictional life of the city. Four markets and just as many religious feast days were conceded by the Carolingian emperors.
After the last Hungarian invasion the increase in population (after the year thousand) encouraged the formation of the first medieval quarters of the city, mostly around the area of Castello: Borgo di Santa Maria (today Via Riccirelli), Borgo dell’abate (today Via Buonparenti and Via Sarti), one perpendicular and the other parallel to the Castello walls.
In the 13th century the newly formed commune purchased rights on the extraction of salt (the city’s main income),sulphur, vitriol and alum in the areas of Larderello, Sasso and Libbiano but soon found itself struggling for independence against the expansions of Pisa, Siena and Florence.
Many house towers including the Tower of the Little Pig were erected as fortifications to defend the noble families from their frequent and bitter fights for power. The Medieval defensive wall was built, with much expense, to enclose a residential area inhabited by a few thousand people.
Volterra was also involved in the factional struggles between the Guelfs and Gibellines.
In 1361 the city fell prey to Florentine rule and although independence was formally conceded, government autonomy was strongly limited.
During the Renaissance period while the city was being fortified the wealthy Volterran families set about embellishing their palaces in Florentine style.
At the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century agriculture and the alabaster trade began to thrive, the roads were improved and the urban centre elaborated. As the post war economy was based on the alabaster craft and industry, the extraction of salt and a few chemical and industrial plants, Volterra recorded a great increase in population. Today tourism is gradually becoming one of the main economic resources, as Volterra is not only endowed with historical monuments that illustrate three thousand years of history but also offers three extremely interesting museums: the Guarnacci Museum, the Art Gallery and the Museum of Sacred Art.
ETRUSCAN GUARNACCI MUSEUM
The Guarnacci museum is one of the earliest public museums in Europe. Founded in 1761 when the noble abbot Mario Guarnacci (Volterra 1701-1785), a collector of antiquities, donated his archeological collection to “the citizens of the city of Volterra”. The donation also included a rich library of more than 50.000 volumes.
The ground floor elucidates the Villanovan, Orientalizing, Archaic and Classic eras and continues on the second floor where the economic and artistic splendour of Etruscan Volterra from the IV-I centuries B.C. is comprehensively expounded.
Etruscan Museum Via don Minzoni 15
ph. +39 0588 86347
Approximate opening times: every day except 1/1 & 25/12
16/3-2/11 - 9.00-18.30
3/11-15/3 - 9.00-14.00
THE ART GALLERY AND CIVIC MUSEUM
The Palazzo Minucci-Solaini situated in the centre of Volterra, built at the end of the 15th century, is the palace which now houses the Art Gallery and Civic Museum with an important collection of paintings from local monasteries, churches, the cathedral, the Saint Linus conservatory in San Pietro, Spedali Riuniti and medieval and contemporary works of art property of the Guarnacci Museum.Palazzo Minucci - Solaini is a splendid example of Rennaissance architecture, meticulous restoration work has recently revealed its original structure, the exquisite symmetary of the façade and elegant harmony of the interior courtyard.
Art Galley and Civic Museum Via dei Sarti 1 ph. +39 0588 87580
Approximate opening times: every day except 1/1 &25/12
16/3-2/11 - 9.00-18.30
3/11-15/3 - 9.00-14.00
MUSEUM OF SACRED ART
The Museum of Sacred Art is housed in the Bishop’s Palace.
The museum was established and officially opened on the 20th December 1932 by Canon Maurizio Cavallini. The Museum displays works of art from the cathedral and the churches of the diocese and a particularly interesting collection of wooden and fictile sculptures, holy vestments, ecclesiastical furnishings and the only remaining 14th century marble sculptures once housed in the Cathedral.
The stairway leading to the museum is decorated with splendid 10th century architraves from the Pieve di San Lorenzo in Montalbano.
Museum of sacred art
Via Roma
Approximate opening times: every day except 1/1 & 25/12
16/3-2/11 - 9.00-13.00 15.00-18.30
3/11-15/3 - 9.00-13.00
ALABASTER: THE CRAFT
Volterra is a city of stone. Its narrow streets, looming towers, and majestic palaces and fortifications are made of stone.
A yellow-grey stone, a sandstone effused with fossils of rare beauty.
Alabaster is also a stone and so is the craft.
The name “alabaster” is undoubtedly Egyptian and probably derives from the city of Alabastron that was famous for the manufacture of vases and amphorae made as perfume containers.
The alabaster craft flourished at the beginning of the 18th century as skilled artisans and sculptors launched the reproduction of classical art and high quality artifacts renowned throughout the world.
ALABASTER HANDICRAFTS:
Alabaster Scali
Loc Campiano
SS 68 km 33
VOLTERRA ph. +39 0588 87737
Società Cooperativa Artieri Alabastro
Via Pisana 28
VOLTERRA ph. +39 0588 86135
ASTILUDIO (Flag throwing)
The historical group Sbandieratori and Balestieri has reinstated the medieval art of flag throwing and archery. In 1981 the group became a part of the Italian Federation of Flag Throwers and in the same year the first edition of the Astiludio, a spectacular tournament in medieval costume between other historical groups from different parts of Italy took place in the evocative setting of the Piazza dei Priori. The Astiludio is now an annual event that takes place once a year on the first Sunday of September.
Porta all'arco: Important remains of Etruscan engineering dating back to the 4th century B.C., it preserves the imposing jambs made with big blocks of stone.
Piazza dei Priori: In the heart of the town, it represents one of the most harmonious and scenic medieval piazzas of Tuscany.
Palazzo dei Priori: Built in the 13th century, it is one of the most ancient City Halls or "Palazzo Comunale" of Tuscany. It is enriched by elegant two-light windows, numerous coats of arms and maiolicas belonging to Florentine families. Palazzo dei Priori is surmounted by a nice tower with turrets.
Duomo: A Romanesque building (12th century) characterised by a nice portal, big rose window and richly decorated. A 3 nave interior, several works of art: "Deposizione" a notable ligneous sculpture, a marmoreous ciborium by Mino da Fiesole dating back to 1471 and "Annunciazione by Bartolomeo della Porta. Inside a chapel "Natività" and "Adorazione", 2 painted terracottas attributed to Andrea della Robbia. On the left is the fresco "Cavalcata dei Magi" by Benozzo Gozzoli (1479). It also preserves other works by Taddeo di Bartolo, Antonio Vanni, Neri di Bicci, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Luca Signorelli.
Battistero: Octagonal building dating back to 1283, with a very nice Romanesque portal. Inside are the baptismal font by Sansovino and the decorated altar by Mino di Pietro.
"Quadrivio dei Buonparenti": Cross road between Via Roma and Via Ricciarelli, it is one of the most evocative corners of the medieval center of Volterra. Here stands the Tower-house of Buonparenti that emerges among the ancient palaces and towers.
Palazzo Viti: preserves a rich collection of alabasters, ancient porcelains and sacred vestments.
The Church of San Michele Archangel: It preserves works of art by Pomarancio, Carlo Maratta and a terracotta by Andrea della Robbia.
The Roman Theater: Discovered in 1950, it is a very important ruin of the Roman Era.
The Fortress: A stately defensive construction which nowadays hosts a penitentiary.
Balze: Striking chasms created by landslides.
Volterra restaurants
La Grotta
Via G. Turazza 13
Volterra
This is a very nice not expensive restaurant and pizzeria, in the summer there is outside seating.
Tel/fax: (+39) 0588 85336
Etruria
Piazza dei Priori 6-8
Volterra
This restaurant is a must. Inside there is a beautiful dining room with XIX frescoes. It is a bit expensive but very very good; in the summer there are tables on the Piazzia dei Priori
Tel: (+39) 0588 86064
Vecchia Osteria dei Poeti
Via G. Matteoti 55,
Volterra
Very sophisticated decoration but with excellent service providing delicious food, there is a limited number of places so be sure to book. The prices are good.
tel : (+39) 0588 86029
Dolceria del Corso
Via Matteotti 31
56048 Volterra
Not to be missed for excellent cakes and pastries
tel. (+39) 0588 86182
fax. (+39)0588 88242
Amarcord
Via San Lino 33
Volterra
A new restaurant located in a cellar of an old palace. The restaurant is tastefully and well decorated, it has gourmet cooking with a typical Tuscany flavour. The service is pleasant and there is a great wine list. Last but not least the prices are very reasonable. A must in Volterra!
Tel: +39 0588 86298
Gelateria "Chic & Shock"
Via dei Marchesi
This icecream shop must not be missed. Also try the excellent cookies.